What is unwanted hair
Why shaving and waxing only ever buy you time, what the hair cycle has to do with it, when extra hair is worth investigating, and how to weigh laser against everything else.

Almost everyone manages hair they would rather not have somewhere on the face or body. For most people it is a maintenance task - shave, wax, thread, repeat - and the only real question is how to spend less time on it. For others, the amount or location of the hair is a change worth understanding, because hair growth is closely tied to hormones and the pattern can sometimes point to something treatable underneath.1
This article walks through what is actually driving hair growth, why every removal method behaves the way it does, when extra hair is worth a conversation with a clinician, what genuinely changes for darker skin tones, and how to read the very loud marketing in this category without getting talked into something.
What is actually happening with hair growth
Every hair grows from a follicle, and every follicle moves through a repeating cycle rather than growing steadily forever. Understanding that cycle explains why some removal methods last days and others can reduce hair for months.2
The cycle has three stages, and only the first one is a useful target for light-based removal.
- Anagen - the growing phase. The follicle is active, the hair is attached to its blood supply at the base, and it is fully pigmented. Scalp hairs stay here for years; body and facial hairs for weeks to months.
- Catagen - the transition phase. Growth stops and the follicle begins to shrink and detach over a couple of weeks.
- Telogen - the resting phase. The hair sits in the follicle without growing, then sheds so a new anagen hair can start. At any moment a chunk of your hair is in this phase and effectively invisible to treatments that need a target.
Why it is not about hygiene, and not always about hormones either
A few myths get in the way of dealing with this sensibly. Body and facial hair is not a cleanliness issue - it is normal human biology, and how much you have is mostly set by genetics and ethnicity. Shaving does not make hair grow back thicker or darker; the regrown tip is blunt rather than tapered, which only makes it feel coarser.2 Hormones do drive hair growth, but for most people with hair they simply find inconvenient there is no hormonal problem at all - it is ordinary variation. The hormonal angle matters in a specific situation, covered below, not as a blanket explanation.
Ordinary unwanted hair versus hirsutism
It is worth separating two different things that often get lumped together, because they lead to different next steps.
- Ordinary unwanted hair is hair in a normal female or male pattern that you would simply prefer to remove - legs, underarms, bikini line, forearms, a few facial hairs. It is a cosmetic preference, not a medical sign.
- Hirsutism is when a woman grows thick, dark hair in a more male pattern - upper lip, chin, jawline, chest, stomach, lower back, or thighs. This is the version that can point to a hormonal cause worth investigating.1
Hirsutism is usually linked to androgens, the group of hormones often called "male" hormones that everyone produces in some amount. The single most common explanation is polycystic ovary syndrome, which can also cause irregular periods and acne. Less commonly, certain medicines or rarer hormonal conditions are involved.1 The point is not to alarm - plenty of people have a few stray dark hairs and nothing wrong - but to know which pattern is which.
The removal methods, and what each one really does
Every method sits somewhere on a spectrum from "removes the hair you can see today" to "reduces how much hair grows back over time." None of the cosmetic options is honestly described as permanent. The table is the clearest way to compare them.
| Method | How it works | Who it suits | What to realistically expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| Shaving / depilatory cream | Cuts or dissolves hair at the surface | Almost anyone, any skin tone, any hair colour | Smooth for one to three days, then regrowth - cheapest and lowest risk |
| Waxing / threading / epilating | Pulls hair out from the root | Most people who tolerate the discomfort | Two to four weeks of regrowth-free skin; risk of ingrowns and irritation |
| IPL (intense pulsed light) | Broad-spectrum light absorbed by pigment in the hair | Lighter skin with dark hair; weaker evidence and less precise | Some short-term reduction; the Cochrane review found little proven effect for IPL3 |
| Laser (alexandrite, diode, Nd:YAG) | A single wavelength of light absorbed by pigment, targeting the follicle | Dark hair; the right device matters for darker skin (see below) | Around 50% reduction over a course at six months; not total or permanent removal3 |
Who tends to seek treatment, and when to look for a cause
Wanting to remove hair is not in itself a reason to see a clinician - it is a personal choice. But the pattern and the speed of any change can matter.
- A long-standing, stable amount of hair in a normal pattern is almost always just genetics and ethnicity. No investigation is needed; the only decision is which removal method fits your time and budget.
- A new or rapidly increasing pattern of thick, dark hair in a woman - particularly with irregular periods or acne - is worth a conversation, because it may reflect a hormonal cause such as polycystic ovary syndrome.1
- Sudden, fast hair growth alongside a deepening voice or other rapid changes is the one pattern that warrants prompt medical attention rather than a cosmetic appointment.1
What changes for darker skin tones
This is the part that matters most for a lot of people in the UAE, because light-based hair removal works by aiming energy at pigment - and skin also contains pigment. On lighter skin the contrast between dark hair and pale skin makes the hair an easy target. On Fitzpatrick types IV to VI, which covers much South Asian, Middle Eastern, and African skin, the melanin in the skin competes for that same energy. Get it wrong and the result is not just an ineffective session but a real risk of burns, blistering, and lasting dark or light marks.4
When it is worth seeing a clinician
Most hair removal needs no medical input at all. The signs that a conversation is worthwhile are about pattern and change, not about disliking the hair:
- New thick, dark hair on the face or body in a woman, in areas it did not used to grow
- Excess hair alongside irregular or absent periods, acne, or unexplained weight change
- Hair growth that has increased noticeably over months rather than staying stable
- Sudden rapid hair growth with a deepening voice or other fast body changes - this needs prompt attention
- Considering laser on Fitzpatrick IV to VI skin and wanting the right device and a test patch first
Where an underlying cause is possible, a clinician can check hormone levels with a simple blood test and treat the cause as well as the hair.1 Where it is purely cosmetic, a DHA-licensed practitioner experienced with your skin tone is what matters for laser.
What evidence-based options actually exist
Realistic options fall into three groups. The right choice depends on your skin tone, hair colour, the area, your budget, and whether there is a hormonal cause to treat alongside removal.2
- Temporary methods. Shaving, depilatory creams, waxing, threading, and epilating. Cheap, accessible, and effective for as long as you keep doing them - the right answer for many people and the only sensible choice when hair colour or skin tone makes light-based methods unsuitable.
- Light and laser-based reduction. Laser offers the best evidence for meaningful reduction over a course of sessions; IPL has weaker evidence. Both need the correct device and settings for your skin, and both reduce rather than eliminate hair.3
- Treating an underlying cause. Where hirsutism is driven by something like polycystic ovary syndrome, addressing the hormonal picture - sometimes with prescription options or eflornithine cream for facial hair - works on the driver, not just the surface. This needs a licensed clinician.1
What to ask in your consultation
If you are considering laser, the questions below help you compare answers and spot whoever is being straight with you about what to expect.
- Which laser or device will be used on my skin tone, and why that one?
- Have you treated Fitzpatrick IV to VI skin with this device, and will you do a test patch?
- How many sessions will I realistically need, and how far apart?
- What reduction is realistic for me, and will I need maintenance afterwards?
- What side effects are common, and which ones should make me call you?
- Could anything other than cosmetics explain my hair growth - is that worth checking first?
- What does a full course cost, including any maintenance, not just one session?
A note on cost
Costs in the UAE vary widely. Temporary methods run from a few dirhams for a razor to AED 50 to 200 for a salon wax or threading session. Laser is sold both per session and as packages: a small area such as the upper lip might be AED 150 to 400 a session, while larger areas or full-body packages can run into several thousand dirhams across a course. The price differences track the area treated, the number of sessions, the device used, and whether maintenance is included - not quality alone. Compare full courses including maintenance, never single sessions, and treat a much cheaper package than everyone else as a prompt to ask which device it uses.
How to read a marketing claim
Hair removal is one of the noisiest categories in aesthetics. "Permanent hair removal," "100% hair-free," "safe for all skin types with one machine," and "painless guaranteed results" are all phrases that outrun the evidence. Honest information sounds duller: long-term reduction rather than removal, a course of sessions rather than one, the specific device chosen for your skin tone, realistic side effects, and maintenance over time. The clinics and products worth your time are the ones that explain what you are paying for and what you should expect at each stage.
Frequently asked
- Is laser hair removal permanent?
- No. The honest term is long-term hair reduction, not permanent removal. The best independent evidence shows roughly a 50% reduction up to six months after a course of sessions, with regrown hair tending to be finer and lighter. Most people need maintenance sessions over time, and long-term data beyond six months is limited.
- Does shaving make hair grow back thicker or darker?
- No. Shaving cuts the hair at the surface, leaving a blunt tip instead of the natural tapered end. That blunt regrowth can feel coarser and look more obvious for a few days, but it does not change how much hair grows, how fast, or its colour.
- Why does laser need so many sessions?
- Light-based methods only affect a follicle while its hair is in the active growing phase, because that is when the hair is pigmented and connected to the structures the energy targets. Only a portion of your hair is in that phase at any moment, so several spaced sessions are needed to catch more follicles while they are treatable.
- Can laser hair removal be done safely on dark skin?
- Yes, but the device and settings matter much more. For Fitzpatrick IV to VI skin, the long-wavelength Nd:YAG laser is generally the safest choice, alongside conservative energy, good cooling, and a test patch first. The wrong device or settings can cause burns, blistering, and lasting pigment changes, so ask which laser will be used and why.
- When is excess hair a sign of something to get checked?
- A stable, long-standing amount of hair in a normal pattern is almost always just genetics. New or increasing thick, dark hair in a woman, especially with irregular periods or acne, can point to a hormonal cause such as polycystic ovary syndrome and is worth a clinician check. Sudden rapid growth with a deepening voice warrants prompt medical attention.
What we cited
guideline · NHS
Excessive hair growth (hirsutism)guideline · American Academy of Dermatology
Laser hair removal: FAQsreview · Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews
Laser and photoepilation for unwanted hair growthexplainer · DermNet NZ
Laser therapy in skin of colour
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